Eyes were the focus of many a house’s beauty look parading down the catwalk during the fall couture 2018 season.Models’ eyes were winged for the Fendi and Valentino displays, accented with a band of color at Ronald van der Kemp and sometimes topped with atypically hued eyebrows (think light blue, white or yellow) at Guo Pei.Stéphane Marais equates smoking with Champagne, so when he learned the theme of the Jean Paul Gaultier couture show was to be “Le Smoking,” the makeup artist told the house’s namesake designer that he would burn corks from the bubbly’s bottles to make smoky eye shadow. The resulting ash, said Marais, “gives that transparency. It is kind of a strange beauty, but very captivating. It makes the eyes look crazy.”Over at Giorgio Armani Privé, Linda Cantello called the beauty look a mashup. “It is slightly Fifties mixed with Sixties, mixed with a bit of Eighties. So there’s no definable decade, but it is still couture,” said the house’s international makeup artist, who used Giorgio Armani Beauty Lip Magnet liquid lipstick in shade number 500 — a pinky, coral tone — around models’ eyes.On runways for other houses, such as Viktor & Rolf and Chanel, peepers popped, too.
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